THE ROUTE
Following the icebound shores of Sermilik into the heart of the arctic wildlands of East Greenland
ARRIVING IN KULUSUK
We'll meet you at the gravel airstrip and walk 30 minutes over tundra back to our lodge, with kit transferred by ATV. With an evening flight, we'll discuss plans, forecasts, and do what packing we can before dinner and a comfortable night at the lodge.
In the morning, we'll work through a kit check and group equipment, and finish packing before loading our powerful expedition motorboat and setting out, keeping a close watch for the many whales that feed in these fjords, whilst we navigate around towering icebergs caught on underwater reefs.
SETTING OUT
Our route starts relatively gently, following the banks of an arctic char stream. Passing by a lake (not marked on the basic map that covers this region), we’ll descend to an old Tunuumi (East Greenlandic) fishing site in use for many hundreds of years.
FOLLOWING THE ICE NORTH
Reaching Sermilik fjord, we follow the shoreline north. The water is crowded with vast quantities of ice, from 'bergs many hundreds of metres long to small pieces of brash ice that strand on the shoreline at low tide. The far, western flank of the fjord is inundated by Greenland's icecap, second only in size to Antarctica.
The terrain we'll be traversing is both intricate and rugged. It's sometimes possible to follow the tideline, walking on beaches of glacial outwash, but we also often gain height over headlands and steeper ground. On the most complex sections, we may only cover upwards of 10km in the course of a full day.
TYPICAL CONDITIONS AND SAFETY
High pressure from the icecap often brings clear, still days of sunshine but north easterlies can drive in rain and wind so good storm gear is essential. Time allowing, we aim to take a couple of shorter days and will also leave our big rucksacks behind one day to climb a summit for wild views out over the fjord.
Each night, we'll set up camp in some stunning spots. Whilst meeting polar bears is highly unlikely, our team prides itself on managing this risk extremely carefully; your guide will carry deterrents, including a rifle, and give a detailed briefing on safety measures so that everyone can take a full part in protecting both bears and the team.
THE CRUX OF THE ROUTE
Around mid-point, to collect a re-supply laid by boat, we head east over the watershed to the headwaters of Qingertivaq, exploring a rich valley system where char run the streams, the tundra thrives and we've seen peregrine falcons.
Back on Sermilik Fjord, we'll move into the crux of the journey, a steep section of coastline where knowledge of the intricate traverse line is invaluable in crossing an area of slabs. We then need to time our crossing of a glacier melt-stream with a low-tide to reach our northern-most point.
At our northern-most point, we leave the ice of Sermilik behind, gaining height to cross a pass before following a deep valley that cuts through the high spires of the Caledonian Alps as well as the big walls of the Fox’s Jaw. We follow another arctic char stream, this time braided across the valley-floor, to reach the head of the Ammassalik fjord system and the end of an epic route. We'll spend one last night in the fjords, looking south toward the coastal mountains around Kulusuk.
BY BOAT TO KULUSUK
On our final morning, our boat Aqqaluk will carry us back to the lodge for hot showers, fresh food and a relaxed afternoon before we take the short walk back to the airstrip for the evening flight back to Keflavik.
OUR LODGE
A traditional wooden cabin we have built ourselves over the years, our lodge is nestled in the tiny Inuit village of Kulusuk, home to 200 people.
A comfortable and practical base to explore East Greenland, our lodge provides cabin bedrooms, running water, hot showers, and flushing toilets, a rare thing in this cold climate. There’s a drying area for kit, a sitting room heated by a stove and a big table we all gather around each evening. Cut off by sea ice six months of the year, our stores and freezers are well supplied to provide a plentiful and varied menu. Whenever possible, we eat locally caught fish, from salmon to arctic char, cod and halibut.
WHO IS THIS TRIP FOR...
If you are looking to join a small team undertaking a committing wilderness journey, this is the trip. The route takes almost 2 weeks to complete. Pack weight is around 20kg: we send out a detailed kit list; lightweight equipment is important. We aim to move at a comfortable pace for around 6 – 8 hours a day, traversing rough terrain, from boulder fields to extensive areas of rough tundra and stream crossings.
GUIDING
We are a small and dedicated team of internationally qualified UIMLA Mountain Leaders who are also passionate adventurers, skiers and mountaineers. As specialists, we encompass over 20 years' experience here in East Greenland. We have great respect for this remote region, carefully managing the unique risks this environment presents. Our safety record is a result of this focus.
GETTING TO GREENLAND
To come visit us on this remote coastline, we’re best reached via Iceland, only 1 hr 40 mins away by turbo prop-plane.
Keflavik, Iceland’s international airport is a hub for North America and Europe and also the starting point for flights to our local airstrip in Kulusuk.
Seats on these Icelandair-operated flights are in short supply and book out early. Whilst we don’t organise flights ourselves, travel agent VR Travel aims to reserve tickets for all our trips and can assist with international connections. You can also book direct with Icelandair.
