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Greenland First Ascents Mountaineering Expedition

Our mountaineering expedition deep into the wilds of arctic East Greenland: 2 weeks of classic alpinism, first ascents and development as an alpinist.
Trip length // 15 days

Exploration of the wild and pristine coastal alpine ranges of East Greenland

Classic mountaineering and the search for first ascents from a remote shoreside basecamp

Develop your skills as an alpinist in the company of a highly experienced IFMGA mountain guide

 

East Greenland presents one of the greatest tracts of wild mountaineering terrain on earth: countless heavily glaciated arctic-alpine ranges rise on the fringes of a vast icecap, bordered to the east by a coastline of icy fjords. It is on these remote shores that we have built our lodge and home and from where, each summer, we launch our exploratory expeditions. A team of four joins a Pirhuk IFMGA high mountain guide for two weeks of adventurous mountaineering, searching out classic alpine ascents from one or more remote shoreside basecamps, often in view of tidewater glaciers. Whilst searching out wild summits and traversing huge glaciers, you will have the opportunity to develop your alpine skills alongside a highly experienced guide. This trip sums up what we love about mountaineering in East Greenland: experience of life in a tiny Inuit community, a boat journey around the icebergs of the fjords to access a remote basecamp and weeks of wilderness mountaineering.

East Greenland Ski Touring, Mountaineering & Trekking Specialists

TERRAIN AND OBJECTIVES

Exploratory mountaineering on an isolated arctic coastline of heavily glaciated alpine ranges incised by a series of fjords.

Greenland is one of the wildest, least populated regions on earth. A mountainous coastline many thousands of kilometres long fringes the second largest icecap on earth. On the eastern shores, home to an Inuit community of 3000, huge alpine-scale ranges gain up to 3600m in height - a captivating place for wilderness mountaineering.

 

We will be focusing on the coastal ranges and Caledonian Alps accessible by boat from our lodge. The mountains are gneiss, with ascents from 800m to over 2000m as we move inland. Impressive alpine terrain, there are many lifetimes’ worth of exploration encompassing all aspects of alpinism - from glaciated snow ascents to mixed ridge lines, faces and rock climbing. We’ll be looking for classic mountaineering ascents around PD – AD alpine grade, involving sections up to around UK dif/US 5.2 in boots. On mountains seldom, if ever, climbed, we take a conservative approach, accounting for rock quality, lines of descent and adventure.

 

Visiting in the months of arctic summer, tundra and alpine plants are in full growth. Our sea-level basecamp is a good place to relax between climbs; we often fish for arctic char in the streams and fjords whilst keeping watch for the many cetaceans (fin, sei, humpack, cachelot, orca, minke) and birds that migrate to this region in summer.

THE PLAN

ARRIVING IN EAST GREENLAND

Departing from Keflavik International airport, a prop-plane flight of 1hr 45 mins reaches the gravel airstrip of Kulusuk Island, East Greenland. We’ll meet you there, walking 30 minutes over the tundra to reach our lodge, whilst all kit is transported by ATV. With an evening flight, we'll discuss plans, conditions and the forecast before dinner and a comfortable night at the lodge.

 

FIRST BASECAMP 

In the morning we'll complete kit checks and pack our kit before loading our powerful expedition boat and crossing the bay to the island of Apusiaajik. From a camp on the banks of an arctic char stream, the surrounding glaciated summits provide many suitable objectives – on snow and mixed ground - for the team to get in sync and gain the efficiency required later on. 2 – 3 days from this camp should be enough, before moving north to the mainland ranges. A journey of around 80 km, our boat Aqqaluk will navigate a series of deep fjords – around 2 hrs underway, pack ice conditions dependent.

 

NORTH INTO THE BIG RANGES 

The exact location for the second basecamp will depend on prevailing conditions and the latest knowledge on where we might find good mountaineering. We typically pitch the tents within sight of one of the massive calving faces of the inland glaciers (mountain tents to sleep in; a larger basecamp tent for cooking).

 

EXPLORATION

Mountaineering plans will develop in view of what we find. We’ll likely attempt a series of day-ascents from camp, utilising the knowledge gained each day to plan further objectives as we learn more about possible ascent (and descent) routes and glacier approaches. When ready to explore further inland, we normally carry equipment in to bivouac higher in the mountains before attempting the remoter summits of the trip. We’ll plan any rest-days around weather and tired legs!

 

RETURN TO THE LODGE

On the final morning of our expedition, Aqqaluk will pick us up for the journey back to our lodge for lunch and hot showers. After a relaxed early-afternoon packing bags, we'll walk back to the airstrip for your evening flight back to Keflavik. 

OUR LODGE

A traditional wooden cabin we have hand-built over the years, our lodge is located in the small Tunuumi village of Kulusuk, home to 200 people.  

 

A comfortable and practical base to explore East Greenland, our lodge provides cabin bedrooms, running water, hot showers, and flushing toilets, a rare thing in this cold climate. There’s a drying area for kit, a stove warmed sitting room and a big table we all gather around each evening. Cut off by sea ice six months of the year, our stores and freezers are well supplied to provide a plentiful and varied menu. Whenever possible, we eat locally caught fish, from salmon to arctic char, cod and halibut. 

East Greenland Ski Touring, Mountaineering & Trekking Specialists

WHO IS THIS TRIP FOR...

This expedition is for mountaineers looking for an adventurous wilderness mountaineering trip, keen to develop their skills alongside a highly experienced IFMGA mountain guide. You should be comfortable with core alpine skills: mountaineering axe and crampon work; experience placing protection; use of a rope to pitch, move together and abseil. We will be on PD – AD graded terrain with vertical ascents generally 1000 - 1500m. A team of four plus guide, we’ll form two rope teams but move in close proximity. When moving independently of the guide, you should be sufficiently skilled and competent to do so on moderate alpine ground. We work hard to build a compatible team and will ask for detailed info on previous experience. We may suggest additional training before joining the trip. If you have any questions over your suitability for this expedition, please contact us.

GUIDING

We are a small and dedicated team of internationally qualified IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guides who are also passionate mountaineers. As East Greenland specialists, we encompass over 20 years' experience in this region. We have great respect for these remote mountains, carefully managing the unique risks this arctic environment presents. Our safety record is a result of this focus. 

GETTING TO GREENLAND

To come visit us on this remote coastline, we’re best reached via Iceland, only 1 hr 40 mins away by turbo prop-plane.

 

Keflavik, Iceland’s international airport is a hub for North America and Europe and also the starting point for flights to our local airstrip in Kulusuk.

 

Seats on these Icelandair-operated flights are in short supply and book out early. Whilst we don’t organise flights ourselves, travel agent VR Travel aims to reserve tickets for all our trips and can assist with international connections. You can also book direct with Icelandair.

 

East Greenland Ski Touring, Mountaineering & Trekking Specialists

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