THE LAND AND SEA OF ICE
Our homeland is a pristine arctic haven of frozen fjords, icebergs, glaciers, mountains and night-time skies illuminated by the Aurora Borealis. This journey provides an immersive experience of a wild and dynamic arctic environment.
From the tiny and isolated village of Kulusuk, we will be journeying into and exploring a vast region of fjords and mountains completely dominated by snow and ice. The scale here is humbling: we could sled for months without reaching another village. We will spend many hours out on the ice, sometimes heading inland to cross islands by low passes that cut between alpine summits. The land is heavily glaciated, in places reaching the saltwater of the fjords in huge calving faces. Icebergs, frozen in until break-up in spring, tower over our path. We are always watchful for the animals that at home here: arctic fox, snow buntings, ptarmigan, cormorants, ravens, ringed seals, and even rare sightings of polar bears, narwhal and gyrfalcon. At night, the sky is often illuminated by skeins of Aurora Borealis stretching east to west.
THE PLAN
Our journey will take us deep into the wilds to the north, closely following ice conditions and weather as we work together with our sled dogs to travel ancient routes that traverse sea ice, glaciers and islands.
SETTLING INTO A DIFFERENT WAY OF LIFE
After flying into the snow strip from Reykjavik, Iceland, we will spend the first afternoon exploring Kulusuk village, a chance to fine-tune our clothing systems, stretch our legs, and get a glimpse into life on this wild coastline. Back at the lodge we’ll check kit and pack bags ready to head out. The next day, with sleds loaded and packs of excited dogs eager to run, we’ll leave the village by the ice of the frozen bay.
NORTH INTO THE FROZEN FJORDLANDS
We will be undertaking a traditional Tunuumi dog sled journey: a deep perception of ice and weather conditions, honed over many years, will set our course as we travel north across the frozen sea. Travelling two to a sled with each musher, you will begin the long process of learning to work with our dogs, from the fan traces we use (suited to wide expanses of sea ice), to the calls and steering of the sled. Reliance on each other is fundamental to life here and the bond between musher and pack, developed over many years, is powerful. Prepare for cold clear days, but also hard winds and snow.
Favourable ice conditions may allow us to reach the halibut fishing grounds, and in exceptional conditions, the village of Sermiligaq, the last outpost on this coast for 800km. Subsistence hunting and dog sledding are fundamental to Tunuumi culture, the dogs fed on the seals that are taken on sledding trips, propelling a way of life millennia-old. If conditions allow, we will hunt for ringed seal whilst out on the ice.
OVERNIGHTING
Each night, we’ll set up camp, thick sleeping bags keeping us warm in robust tents as we melt snow to eat and drink whilst telling stories and enjoying life out on the ice. We will likely spend at least one night gathered around the big stove of our own cabin, situated on a wild peninsula below a high glacier.
RETURN TO KULUSUK
After six days out, our journey will take us back home to Kulusuk for hot showers and home-cooked food. After only a week, but an immersive experience of this ancient culture and other-worldly arctic environment, the warmth of this tiny community takes on a special significance. Timings allowing, we always try to visit our local museum, an impressive family collection that offers further insight into the Tunuumi people.
After one last night at the lodge, we return to the snow strip and the prop plane flight out over the Denmark Strait to Iceland.
OUR LODGE
A traditional wooden cabin we have built ourselves over the years, our lodge is nestled in the tiny Inuit village of Kulusuk, home to 200 people.
A comfortable and practical base to explore East Greenland, our lodge provides cabin bedrooms, running water, hot showers, and flushing toilets, a rare thing in this cold climate. There’s a drying area for kit, a sitting room heated by a stove and a big table we all gather around each evening. Cut off by sea ice six months of the year, our stores and freezers are well supplied to provide a plentiful and varied menu. Whenever possible, we eat locally caught fish, from salmon to arctic char, cod and halibut.
ABILITY
We have worked hard to make this trip accessible to anyone looking for adventure and a deep insight into the pristine wilderness and culture of this arctic coastline. Previous experience of cold-weather conditions and camping is an advantage but not essential. Travelling with experts, there’ll be a lot of opportunities to learn and refine the many skills essential to travelling in this environment. A reasonable level of fitness will allow you to get the most out of the trip, whether helping pack the loads, manoeuvre the sleds or set up camp.
If you have any questions as to whether this trip is suitable for you, we would be happy to organise a call to discuss further.
GUIDING
Pirhuk is a partnership of professional mountain guides and the highly respected dog sledders of Kulusuk. We combine decades of experience with a passion for our home and life here. We have huge respect for this wild, remote region and are inherently conservative in our decision-making, applying vigilance and care to all that we do.
Each year, it means a great deal to us to share powerful experiences out on the frozen fjords with like-minded folk.
CONDITIONS & EQUIPMENT
We will be travelling in arctic conditions. These can range from cold, still days of sun to blizzards. Equipment choice makes all the difference to being comfortable here. We provide warm snowsuits, down jackets, mitts, thick sleeping bags and mats. You will receive a detailed kit list of additional equipment to help you prepare.
GETTING TO GREENLAND
To come visit us on this remote coastline, we’re best reached via Iceland, only 1 hr 40 mins away by turbo prop-plane.
Keflavik, Iceland’s international airport is a hub for North America and Europe and also the starting point for flights to our local airstrip in Kulusuk.
Seats on these Icelandair-operated flights are in short supply and book out early. Whilst we don’t organise flights ourselves, travel agent VR Travel aims to reserve tickets for all our trips and can assist with international connections. You can also book direct with Icelandair.
