What makes this expedition stand out?  The flexibility to plan with, and not against, prevailing conditions, a team with the skills to handle a wide range of conditions and a location that is as wild and remote as it is starkly beautiful.  This is our definitive sea kayaker's expedition for paddlers who want to join a small like-minded group on a real expedition that will explore this incredible and magical area. 

The day after landing on the gravel airstrip, we'll leave Kulusuk village behind, bound for the vast wilderness that lies to the north.  Following tides and currents carrying pack ice, we'll explore deep fjords overshadowed by gneiss spires and paddle at a safe distance along the faces of awe-inspiring tidewater glaciers; we'll camp on that one particular point where 2 waterways merge, causing upsurges of plankton that minke and sei whales congregate to feed on.  This is an expedition into the most beautiful land, water and icescape that we know of.  If you'd be interested in joining a small group of like-minded paddlers this coming July, please read on.

An experienced team removes all the barrs: the expedition will have full rein to explore the region and the flexibility to fully take advantage of current conditions (see section on ice below) - perhaps we'll head north through the complex of fjords and islands to reach the head of Sermiligaq fjord, the location of 5 tide-water glaciers; or NW, making the open-water crossing of Angmagssalik fjord, then through the long and narrow Ikasartivaq fjord, to reach Sermilik - a waterway always full of vast quantities of ice. We love this area, and relish the chance to show the expedition team some of the many 'hidden gems' we've found over the years; there's the spit of land that lies at the meeting of two fjords, where we've sat in wonder on numerous occasions as several fin whales feed only 10s of metres from the shore; or the hidden and suprisingly verdant valley that culminates in a gorge and waterfall.

Ice Navigation

A current runs south down the East Coast, carrying pack ice (frozen, then broken, sea ice) from the Arctic Ocean and icebergs calved from glaciers further to the north.  The quantities of ice tend to lessen in August, but can vary greatly from year to year; sometimes we must carefully pick our way through a maze of pack ice, whilst at others, the fjords are open, with only large icebergs stranded on the sea bed.  The ice dampens down any swell, but also presents a unique set of challenges.  A wide course must be taken around icebergs and boats pulled up high each night as their unpredictable and sudden collapse can create big waves.  In heavy pack-ice conditions, narrow fjords create 'chokes' where tidal and wind action can dangerously constrict the ice.  Timing is therefore of utmost importance.

Why Greenland's East Coast?

To the indigenous Inuit, East Greenland is known as Tunu, translated as 'the Land at the Back'; the vast majority of Greenland's population live on the West Coast, only several thousand inhabiting a couple of settlements amidst the vast wilderness of the East Coast.  This wild and remote coastline is made up of complexes of fjords, mountains and glaciation - an arctic environment suprisingly rich in flora and fauna. 

The expedition will take place amongst this grandeur, starting from the tiny Inuit settlement of Kulusuk, one of the outermost islands, and working deeper into the fjords.  The outer islands are stark and rocky, but as we get further inland, the climate softens and so the shores become increasingly green.

Camping around Inuit tent circles

One of the really special aspects of paddling in this region of East Greenland are the wonderful camps that are established each night, nestled amongst the dwarf willows with views of the iceberg-studded fjords.  We always look for a stream and then something more; a beautiful location that also seems protected from the elements.  It's uncanny how often we find the tent rings of old Inuit camps in such sites - a link across centuries to a people who also paddled these waters.

Please note that this is an example itinerary, and is dependent upon team ability and local ice conditions.

Day 1 

Arrive in Keflavik International Airport, Iceland.  Transfer to Reykjavik.  Overnight in guesthouse.

Day 2 

Fly Reykjavik to Kulusuk, East Greenland.  A short transfer from accommodation to the airport.  Flight by bi-prop Fokker 50 or Dash over the Denmark Strait.  Impressive views of the pack ice, 'bergs and mountains of East Greenland.  Land on the gravel strip at Kulusuk.  Meet expedition guide.  Walk to Kulusuk village.  Equipment check & safety briefing.

Day 3 

Early morning start towards Apusiajiik Island and the first of many tide-water glacier faces.  First camp with views of the western horizon (at this time of year, the sun only dips below the Icecap for a short while, making for 6 hour sunsets and rises).

Day 4 

Follow the shores of Apusiajiik north, skirting the open waters of Angmagssalik/Ammassalik fjord, before crossing 3 fjords to reach Eqi - a camp amongst Inuit tent circles, from which we've watched fin whales cruising up and down the sound a stone's throw from the shore.

Day 5

A start dictated by the tide; northwestwards into the sheltered Torssukatak fjord, passing the Inuit village of Kungmiut/Kummiut.  The key to the day is in reaching the head of the fjord at high tide, when a narrow channel is flooded, allowing access to the wide, shallow bay of Tuno.  The bay's shallow because of the alluvial outwash from an unnamed glacier that lies a little inland.  Following the braided char streams north, an hour's walk leads through the morraines to the terminus of the glacier amidst incredible mountain scenery. 

Day 6

Out of Tuno into Ikateq fjord.  Past a spectacular rock spire and the remains of a WWII US airstrip (complete with several thousand rusty barrels).  Into Sermiligaq fjord, we follow the coast northwards and inland.  In Sermiligap qingertiva, the Knud Rasmussen and Karale glaciers, together with a handful of smaller ice flows reach sea level in ice faces many kilometres long.  Camp by the calving face with the boats high-and-dry, to the gun-shot reports of the glacier producing icebergs.

Day 7

Follow the ice faces at a respectful distances back towards the open sea.  Cross the fjord (paying particular attention that we don't damage the boats on the sharp, freshly carved ice) and follow the eastern shore of Sermiligaq to make camp a little to the north of the remotest of the area's tiny villages, Sermiligaq, where we can perhaps make a visit in the evening.

Day 8

In the mouth of Sermiligaq fjord, 2 islands refer back to the first Europeans, the Norse or Vikings, that visited these shores.  Leif's and Erik the Red's Islands rise steeply out of the water and will be our target for the day.

Day 9

Depending on how everyone feels, we may take the day to explore these mysterious islands, searching for the obelisks that are marked on the map.  An ascent of one of the peaks will pay us with views of the fjord that we will attempt to cross each day - we can check ice conditions and watch tidal movements.

Day 10

A crossing of Sermiligaq fjord.  We need good conditions and will hop between the islands that span the fjord mouth.  From this day onwards, we will be traversing the shores exposed to the ocean. 

Day 11

Southwards through the complex of tiny islands that make up the western fringe of Sermiligaq fjord.  There are 2 small hunting cabins that we may overnight in.

Day 12

Enter the enclosed basin of Aqerta-tuluk and round the southern-most tip of Apusiajiik island, Kongartik, by way of a  narrow channel that is protected from the ocean swell by a series of skerries.  Camp in sight of Kulusuk island. 

Day 13

Through the grounded icebergs of Ikasartik until the village is in sight.  Return to the village.  Showers, a farewell meal together and a good night's sleep!

Day 14

Transfer through to the airstrip and leave East Greenland behind.  1.5 hours later, re-entry into a very different world in Reykjavik, Iceland.  Overnight in a guesthouse.

Day 15

Transfer through to Keflavik Airport.  End of expedition.